Graceful #005 - Are LED Masks Worth It? Here’s What You Need to Know
LED Light Therapy - Everything You Need to Know:
Last week we explored inflammation and how your food choices ripple into your skin. This week, we’re moving to a question I’m asked constantly: LED light therapy, do I need it? What LED mask should I buy?
Every influencer and their cousin seem to be peddling LED masks online so it’s only natural to feel skeptical. Let’s discuss what’s real, what’s noise, if you could benefit from light therapy and how does choosing between in-clinic vs. at-home fit into the equation.
A brief origin story (worth knowing):
Modern light therapy sits on decades of research. Back in the 1960s, lasers started being tested for medical use. Scientists worried the intense light might cause cancer, so they did safety studies — including one where shaved mice were “zapped” daily with red light. The mice didn’t get cancer, but their hair grew back faster. Naturally, interest and further research snowballed from here.
Later, NASA investigated red light to support wound healing in astronauts, helping further cement broader medical interest in photobiomodulation (light prompting beneficial cellular change, or fancy word for light therapy). Since then, thousands of studies have explored benefits across wound repair, pain relief, joint health—and yes—skin quality.
I was actually introduced to LED in quite a dramatic way myself. Back in the early Instagram days, I went through a phase of being very strict with only using organic, ‘natural’ products on my skin. I’d seen someone share their amazing results using watered-down apple cider vinegar for hormonal acne and thought I’d give it a go (I’ll allow a very justified eye roll here). Instead, it triggered the worst perioral dermatitis reaction I’ve ever had, flaring around my mouth and nose.
I was prescribed steroids by my GP, but I did a little research and decided to try in-clinic LED (and my trusty Avene Cicalfate+). I went in every two days for two weeks for red light/NIR (more on this below), and within the first week my skin had already calmed by about 90%. It was my first real experience of how powerful light therapy can be for repair and inflammation.
The core basics—fast:
Different wavelengths—essentially different colours of light—penetrate to different depths and trigger specific effects.
These are the ones with the most research behind them and what really matters when choosing any device:
Blue (~415 nm): Surface level; targets acne-causing bacteria.
Red (~633–660 nm): Mid-dermis (the second skin layer); boosts collagen, calms inflammation, evens tone.
Near-infrared/NIR (~830 nm): The deepest length studied; supports repair, recovery, and long-term skin health.
Another two key specs to understand if they’re thrown about in marketing claims:
Irradiance (mW/cm²): How much useful light actually reaches your skin.
Dose (J/cm²): Irradiance × time = the total therapeutic ‘light’ delivered.
TLDR: Red + near-infrared together are the gold standard within the above ^ ranges of wavelength.
And as with all things skincare, consistency of use when it comes to light therapy, beats intensity, so don’t get too caught up in finding exact specifications if you go down a rabbit hole of research papers, find one that falls within these parameters, that you will use often.
What it actually does for skin (and body):
At the cellular level, mitochondria (the energy centres of your cells) absorb red/NIR light and essentially become more efficient (want to know more; read on here). The practical outcomes you care about:
Faster repair post-treatment or irritation
Reduced inflammation and visible redness
More collagen + elastin (firmer, bouncier skin)
Better microcirculation (brighter, more even tone)
There’s also broader support in the literature for muscle recovery, joint comfort, and sleep/circadian rhythm benefits when red light is used in the evening (in contrast to the very alerting blue light coming from screens).
Masks, panels, lasers—what’s the difference?
At-home masks: sit close to skin so less light is lost; designed for safe, frequent use. Can also walk around the house, cook dinner, scroll tik tok etc.
Panels: higher power and larger coverage, but typically further from skin (can mean more light scatter and therefore up to 60% doesn’t make it to the skin in some cases, so tech needs to be very well designed; read - avoid Aliexpress panels). I personally find a panel harder to implement into a routine as it requires lying underneath or near it for 20-30 mins, and therefore harder to remain consistent (read: can’t sit still) vs a wearable mask but this is personal preference. On the contrary, if you need an excuse to take time out, or get into meditation this is a perfect habit stack.
Clinic devices*: these have medical-grade diodes, precise wavelengths, higher output & irradiance (how much hits the skin) , uniform coverage, and controlled and customisable protocols. In practice, that means deeper, more even dosing and faster, more noticeable results—especially when paired with other treatments.
*How I use it in clinic: I frequently add LED after lymphatic drainage and enzyme peels in my skin centric facials. It calms post-treatment inflammation, accelerates recovery, and amplifies glow—clients see better outcomes, sooner.
FAQs I’m asked most:
Let’s answer the questions I’m most asked, regarding light therapy devices, any considerations, and how to know if it’s worth investing in light therapy for your skin.
Do at-home devices actually work?
Yes for most*—if the wavelengths are correct and you use them consistently (each device will differ based on their unique specs) but usually 10–20 minutes, 3–5×/week for 8–12 weeks before seeing results.
*some people see results faster, or in more obvious ways than others, depending on their starting point and concerns.
Is it safe?
Generally, yes. LED is non-UV and non-ablative (doesn’t use heat). Some considerations:
Melasma/pigmentation-prone: if prone to heat-sensitive melasma, keep sessions moderate/short and pair with cooling, anti-inflammatory at-home care (no abrasive exfoliants; focus on barrier repair). If you’re very cautious, just skip it and focus on other strategies. Blue light (~415 nm) can be more irritating for some pigmentation-prone skin and better used as a spot treatment rather than all over, whereas red (~633–660 nm) and near-infrared (~830 nm) are generally inflammation-lowering and generally help improve pigmentation over time. Some people use a fan with their panel to stay extra cool, though I find this a little over the top and would just avoid LED if you’re paranoid. Most research and clinical experience support red + NIR as safe and effective for calming skin without issue.
Photosensitivity, pregnancy, certain medications: Check with your clinician/GP first. Most advice is to avoid LED or light therapy on the torso during pregnancy; as with many things there are no studies to explicitly rule for or against it but they are generally thought to be safe on the face.
Can it worsen pigmentation?
See above but; red and near-infrared light themselves aren’t pigment-inducing—they reduce inflammation, which is often the root of pigmentation. Blue light or high-heat devices can theoretically aggravate pigmentation in some more sensitive skins. Shorter sessions, keeping a good distance from the panel, and avoiding stacking with other heat-based treatments (radio-frequency, vigorous facial massage, saunas etc) may theoretically help reduce risk. There is a great article here in more depth about results and considerations regarding pigmentation, but most people will see improvements over time rather than worsening when used consistently.
How does clinic LED compare to home use?
See above, but clinic devices deliver higher, more controlled doses with even coverage with validated wavelengths, so results arrive faster. Home devices are excellent for maintenance between sessions.
Can I combine LED with other treatments?
Absolutely. Post-microneedling, peels, some lasers, extractions, even lymphatic work. Red light and NIR reduces downtime, calms inflammation, and enhances outcomes but please always seek professional advice for your specific needs.
What’s the deal with LYMA lasers:
I’m often asked about this device —it’s everywhere thanks to celebrity endorsements which can sometimes make it feel a little ‘too good to be true’? Their technology uses a low-level, near-infrared laser beam (approx 808 nm); the light waves are aligned and don’t spread out like LEDs, meaning the beam can penetrate more deeply and precisely into skin tissue. This means their technology has potential for deeper collagen stimulation, skin remodelling, even scar healing but as it’s targeted, it’s better being used for spot treatment or as a longer or more frequent treatment in specific areas (jaw/under chin, frown lines etc) unless you’re using a couple of their larger devices at the same time which covers more surface area. Different hardware, similar cellular target (mitochondria). It can deliver more concentrated energy, but at a nuch higher price point and needs consistency.
How to choose a device (if you’re buying):
You’ve decided you’re in the market, and you can make time in your life for a little photobiomodulation - here is what to prioritise when looking at products:
Prioritise:
Wavelengths listed ideally red ~633–660 nm + NIR ~830 nm
Evidence/testing + reviews ; independent data or clinicals, make sure peer reviews are very positive.
Practicality & Comfort will you use it 3–5×/week? Is it comfortable to wear (reviews). If not save your money.
Safety credentials & warranty CE, reputable manufacturer, make sure it has a robust warranty/direct from manufacturer often smoother than through a retailer.
My go-to is Omnuilux (disclosure: I have had a partnership with them in the past but this choice is also due to their extensive clinical data and research).
Please refer to this article for an extremely in-depth review on lots of different masks and panels + more considerations before buying.
Bottom Line:
LED isn’t for everyone, and it only works if you can use it consistently. But if it’s something you can realistically build into your routine, it’s a simple, well-researched way to support your skin’s repair, resilience, and overall health. At-home sessions create momentum, in-clinic treatments accelerate results, and paired with thoughtful skincare and lifestyle habits, it can quietly help your skin heal, strengthen, and renew over time but don’t expect it to drastically alter your appearance.
Results:
A few before and after images of clients following a bespoke treatment plan. These incorporate at home LED to support their skin concerns. In most of these cases, LED is key in supporting redness and inflammation in the skin.
From My Desk This Week:
One product I’m loving: Hypochlorous acid. An underrated, super affordable product for a whole range of skin concerns—from calming irritation & redness to supporting healing after treatments or sun exposure. I keep a little spray bottle on hand because it’s gentle (can be used on children too), effective, and a bit of a lifesaver for sensitive or reactive skin. Quick tip: avoid using hypochlorous acid at the same time as antioxidants. The acid can neutralise an active like vitamin C, reducing its antioxidant benefits and effectiveness. Great post by queen of no-nonsense Charlotte Palermino here on this.
What I’m reading/listening to: I’ve been listening to a podcast by Amy Chang and Dr. Anthony Youn discussing some Korean skin procedures she’s had on her recent trip there. I’m fascinated by how much Korean beauty culture influences both skincare and medical aesthetics at the moment. I love seeing how much thought goes into preventative care as opposed to short-term solutions like filler, lots of non-invasive (and invasive) procedures, and layering different treatments for long-term results… but at the same time, I can’t help but be a little wary of the impact this has on beauty expectations—sometimes the drive for perfection can feel intense? Would love to know your thoughts this.
In the media: There’s been a government crackdown on aesthetics and who can provide treatments (BBC: link) and more guidance for people travelling abroad for treatments (UK Gov: link) to reduce pressure on NHS who are seeing increases in patients needing support post' ‘botched’ procedures. Both are important, given how popular overseas treatments have become. As mentioned above, there are lots of people travelling to Korea for skincare treatments and Turkey has long been a go-to for dental work and surgery. But the crackdown on who can provide certain treatments feels very overdue—UK regulations around client safety and who can inject have long been lacking (currently anyone can do a one-day course and inject botox the next). It’s a reminder to always do your homework and choose practitioners. Recommend The Tweakments guide for this.
Small shift to try this week: Legs up the wall before bed for a bit of lymphatic drainage. I like to combine it with reading and wearing my LED mask as part of my little bedtime habit stack ritual. It’s a simple move, but it really helps me relax, my legs feel less restless, and I sleep better!
As always, I hope this helps us all navigate some popularised topics around ageing with intention and ease. I’d love to hear your questions or any topics you’d like me to break down in future newsletters.
With grace,
Charlie x
