Graceful #023 - Untrendy Skincare Advice
Skincare Advice That Doesn’t Trend Online
There’s a certain style of skincare advice that doesn’t perform well online. It isn’t sensational, and it doesn’t promise instant transformation, which, of course, makes it less favourable to the algorithm. The guidance that tends to change skin the most, rarely hinges on a trending ingredient, a buzzy new launch, or a ten-step routine curated for aesthetic shelf appeal.
And in clinic, I often find myself gently undoing what social media has encouraged in so many of us: simplifying, calming, softening the reflex to do more. Because many of the concerns I see today aren’t actually caused by neglect, they’re caused by overstimulation. Some food for thought:
More ≠ More
Barrier disruption, chronic sensitivity, low-grade inflammation, dehydration, reactivity: these are increasingly common symptoms I see in clinic, often cosplaying as “bad skin,” when in reality they stem from doing too much rather than too little.
The usual culprits? Over-exfoliating. Layering incompatible actives. Chasing every product that earns a moment of virality. Using something your best friend’s cousin swore by.
Skin isn’t designed to live in a constant state of correction. It’s an intelligent, responsive organ that protects, repairs, and self-regulates when given the right conditions. Overload it with multiple actives, aggressive exfoliation, and nightly experimental masks, and it predictably shifts into defence mode. Support it with a considered, pared-back routine, and it responds with stronger barrier function, clearer tone, improved resilience, and a calmer baseline, better equipped to cope with the unavoidable stressors of modern life.
For many clients, the most powerful intervention isn’t adding another product. It’s removing several and/or seeking advice from a professional.
Consistency > Complexity
We’ve been sold the idea that impressive results require elaborate routines. In practice, the opposite is usually true.
The most effective skincare routines I’ve seen are consistent, predictable, and intentionally minimal. I often anchor clients around what I think of as the Core Four (more on routines here): a dependable cleanser, an exfoliant suited to their skin and used at the right frequency, a barrier-supporting moisturiser, and daily SPF. From there, we can layer in bespoke, targeted actives, but only once the foundations are stable.
Social media thrives on novelty, but skin thrives on repetition.
Cell turnover, collagen production, pigment regulation; none of these respond well to constant change or happen overnight. Each time you overhaul your routine, you risk resetting progress before it has time to compound. Calm, continuity, and patience almost always outperform experimentation when it comes to our home care routines.
If you’re unsure whether something is “working”, staying the course for a few months is often more powerful than switching lanes every few weeks.
Slowly working on curating my product recommendations here.
Lifestyle matters, a lot.
Sadly, the least shareable skincare advice is often the most impactful. What is impacting our skin the most?:
Sleep quality
Stress load
Blood sugar balance
Hydration
Movement
Hormonal health
These factors quietly shape how skin behaves day to day, and how we age over time, and often more profoundly than any topical product can. Does it matter what we use in our skincare routine? Yes of course. But you can’t exfoliate your way out of chronic stress. You can’t retinol your way out of poor nutrition. And you can’t expect skin to thrive if your internal environment is under constant strain.
This is why my consultations extend beyond products, and why my treatment philosophy isn’t limited to the face alone. Skin doesn’t exist in isolation, it reflects the state of the body, the mind, and the pace of someone’s life. Supporting even one of those pillars more intentionally often creates visible shifts in the skin, so before adding in a new product reflect on whether there are small tweaks you could make elsewhere, first. Bringing your bedtime forward by half an hour is often a great place to start, and has a domino effect on so many other factors that can impact our overall health, and therefore our skin.
Glass skin isn’t it.
We’ve been conditioned to associate “good skin” with this almost alien-like sheen. It’s a luminous glass-like finish that photographs beautifully. But the healthiest skin isn’t necessarily the shiniest (in fact often the contrary), it’s the most functional.
What does that mean though? A resilient barrier. Balanced oil production. Calm inflammation. Strong collagen. Efficient repair.
Most trending routines focus on how skin looks, but far fewer focus on how skin works. The irony is when function improves, aesthetics tend to follow: texture refines, skin tone evens, redness decreases and lines soften. Treatments will even perform better because the skin is primed, supported, and biologically receptive.
This is the foundation of what I’m just starting to see online being framed as: ‘regenerative aesthetics’, where the goal is not necessarily forcing change, but strengthening the systems that allow change to unfold naturally.
TLDR:
In an industry that rewards excess, the real flex is actually restraint. Strong, healthy skin isn’t built through constant stimulation, trend-chasing, or online theatrics, it’s built through consistency, barrier integrity, sound biology, and habits that support both the body and face, holistically. Trends will move on, algorithms will shift, but skin reacts to what you do repeatedly. Prioritise it’s function first, and appearance tends to follow.
From My Desk This Week:
One product I’m loving: I mentioned my love for my other half’s Korean SPF in the last issue, and I’m staying on theme this week. I always aim to mix high and low-end recommendations, because price doesn’t always equal quality, especially when it comes to cleansers, and particularly with French and Korean skincare in the mix.
Lately, I’ve been trying the Anua Moisturising Gentle Gel Cleanser as my evening second cleanse as my skin has been a bit congested this month and felt I needed something a little more robust. I’m genuinely impressed: it’s not stripping, has a gel-to-foam texture, and leaves the skin completely clean and prepped for the next steps. I usually avoid gel cleansers, but Korean innovation has officially converted me. Great for my fellow combination skins.
What I’m reading/listening to: I’ve been working my way through a mix of hit-and-miss books from the Kindle Prime offering recently. In theory, it’s a great way to read more: easy, light reads that help me switch off, and escape into a cheeky romance or a whodunit before bed. I do however feel like I am slightly sacrificing quality of writing, for “something light,” and I’d love your recommendations for anything that fits this sweet spot.
In my quest for the perfect bedtime read, I mentioned my frustration to a fellow mum at the school gates last week, and she insisted I try A Court of Thorns and Roses by Sarah J. Maas; a fantasy romance. Fantasy isn’t usually my thing, but I was told to “get over it and just try it…” I’m now a quarter of the way through the first book and, not totally sold. It’s the first of five, so it’s a big commitment if I dive in, and I’m teetering on the edge. Will report back next week. Any thoughts welcomed, just reply to this email.
In the media: So much happening this week in the news. Honestly, it feels relentless. But a bright light amongst it all: Bad Bunny’s halftime performance. I don’t speak a lick of Spanish. I barely know anything about NFL. And yet I found myself tearing up over breakfast, totally mesmerised. It felt culturally significant, inspiring and it was such an electric performance. I’ve been humming along to his album all week.
On another note I’ve been sinking into red light therapy research. There are a huge number of studies being published over a really broad range of use cases. Brain health. Sleep. Eyesight. Mental wellbeing. The studies are stacking up, quietly promising. I can’t help thinking we’re only at the beginning of understanding how light shapes our health in both a positive and negative way.
Small shift to try this week: On the topic of light; consider what lights you have on in the house 1–2 hours before bed. Research shows that typical indoor lighting before bedtime suppresses melatonin and delays your internal night signal, making it harder to fall asleep. By dimming bright lights in the evening and switching to warm, low-level lamps, it helps your body produce melatonin, signals it’s time to sleep, supports your circadian rhythm, and improves sleep quality. Overhead or cool-white lights can confuse your brain into thinking it’s daytime, making it harder to fall asleep. Perhaps not a ‘small’ shift - but a great hack with minimal investment if sleep quality is something you’re working on.
As always, I hope this helps us all navigate some popularised topics around ageing with intention and ease. I’d love to hear your questions or any topics you’d like me to break down in future newsletters, just reply to this email.
With grace,
Charlie x
PS: Please forward this email on to anyone you think might find it insightful. They can sign up here, and read past issues here.
